There’s a saying, “If you can’t estimate, you can’t work.” That’s why it’s crucial that we are skilled technicians, but equally important that we know how to estimate. Estimation becomes a key element in securing jobs. Often, clients assume that low prices indicate lack of skill or doubt our capabilities. Eager to start our business, we might quote a very low price to clients, overlooking certain details. However, upon realizing the complexity of the job, we might become discouraged. This is why we will teach you how to estimate correctly. Later on, we’ll delve deeper into the techniques described here. In article 3, we will provide a comprehensive explanation of all the tools, but for now, we’ll mention them so you understand why some jobs require higher charges, even if the dent seems easy at first glance.
The first consideration when estimating a collision dent is the condition of the paint, the affected panel, and its location on that panel.
Paint condition is critical. It’s not the same working on a car with old paint or non-original paint. Understanding this helps us choose the right procedure or technique for the repair. For instance, with older paint, typically on cars over 10 years old, the paint tends to be brittle. This complicates using suction cups or plastic tabs. Even original paint can be damaged. One approach is to gently heat the paint for flexibility, using a heat gun. Then, suction cups or plastic tabs can be applied. Caution is needed to avoid overheating the paint, which could cause damage. Once the dent is aligned, in the finishing stage, regular heating is essential during both rod and hammer techniques.
When a car has paint that’s 10 years old, repairs are possible, but more heat gun use extends the process, leading to slightly higher repair costs.
When dealing with non-original paint, avoid plastic tabs, as you might not know how the panel was repainted. If low-quality materials or excessive body filler were used, the paint might not withstand the dent removal process. While we don’t recommend working on dents with non-original paint, if you decide to, use suction cups instead of plastic tabs. These have a larger diameter and less pulling force than plastic tabs. In dent reduction, instead of an inductive hammer, use pliers to apply gentler force. Alternatively, attach the plastic tab with warm silicone and pull gently. Wooden sticks with heat are also viable options.
Regardless of your dent reduction method, finish with rod or hammer techniques while applying heat when possible.
Next, analyze the affected panel. Repairing a dent on a door, pillar, or roof is not the same. Some pieces are counted as one, two, or three panels. For instance, a door or fender counts as one panel, as does a pillar. A hood or roof equals two panels, or in some cases, three. Hence, the repair cost for larger panels is higher. Fixing hail damage on a Fiat 500 roof differs from repairing a 4×4 Hilux or Amarok.
Panel location also affects estimation. Depending on location, disassembly might be unnecessary. For instance, between headlights and fenders, or accessing through a window in door dents. Occasionally, seemingly simple dents involve internal reinforcements requiring panel disassembly. Such factors impact time and price.
After analyzing paint, the affected panel, and its location, you’ll have an estimate of the repair duration and cost of a standard body and paint job. Consequently, you can pass on your estimate to the client.
As previously mentioned, preserving original paint is highly valued. We recommend setting repair costs at 60% of body and paint expenses. Handcrafted dent repair deserves fair compensation, considering meticulous work. Clients appreciate the outcome even if it costs the same as repainting. Nothing compares to maintaining paint originality.
Let’s consider a practical example. Suppose there’s a collision dent on a car’s left front fender. We know that body and paint jobs cost 300 euros locally. Therefore, we establish a base price of 180 euros for a collision dent repair, equivalent to 60% of a body and paint job. If disassembly is easy, with minimal parts removal, there’s no extra cost. However, if the dent affects complex structures, consider 80% of a body and paint job, roughly 240 euros. On a hood, where the area is larger, the price should be higher due to repainting expenses. So, a larger panel could cost around 500 to 600 euros to repaint.
Hail damage requires further considerations, including dent severity, ranging from grade 1 (1 cm) to grade 4 (4 cm). Larger damages are higher in cost. A standard hail damage repair takes half a day for grade 1, a full day for grade 2, two days for grade 3, and three days for grade 4. Considering your expertise, experience, and practice, you will improve both the quality and speed of your work over time.
Now that we understand the profession better and how to estimate jobs, we can move on to tools – an essential section that will help us discover what tools we need to start this trade and which ones might be less critical to acquire.
